A versatile dish

Although it’s not summer yet, by a long way, I had all the ingredients for tian de lègumes gratiné / summer vegetables baked with cheese. I put a little olive oil in my tian, an open earthenware dish, and added sliced vegetables in layers: aubergine, courgettes and tomatoes. I seasoned each layer and sprinkled with more oil. On the final tomato layer, I also sprinkled some finely chopped rosemary, and then covered with cheese slices. The recipe suggests mozzarella, but I used the local Cantal cheese as a substitute. I baked in the oven for one hour. The result was delicious, both hot and cold, and would also make a very good starter.

Fishy soup

Le ttoro / Basque fish soup originates from the fishing port of St Jean de Luz in the French Basque country. You can find it in restaurants and homes, and it seems everyone has their own version. I made a basic version, as follows. I fried chopped onions in olive oil until golden, then added some hake bits and pieces (head, skin and bones) along with a bouquet garni, salt, pepper corns, and ground piment d’Espelette. This delicious red pepper powder has a unique flavour, spicy, sweet and fruity, and has its own AOP appellation in France (i.e. the peppers can only be grown in the area around Espelette, inland from St Jean). I covered everything with water and simmered for 30 minutes, then strained the resulting liquid. Meanwhile, I dipped some hake cutlets in seasoned flour and fried briefly, before adding them to the hot stock and simmering gently until cooked through. I also fried some rounds of French bread to make large croutons. I put these in my serving bowls, sprinkled with chopped parsley and garlic, placed a fish cutlet on top, sprinkled over a little more piment, and ladled over the stock. The result was a delicate soup, with a crunchy garlicky crouton, complemented by a perfectly cooked piece of fish. You could add additional seafood if you want, such as langoustine tails and mussels.

A strong sauce

La lotte toulousaine / monkfish served with walnut and garlic sauce is rather unusual. The fish is served with an aillade, a very thick sauce based on a purée of garlic, and it certainly packs a punch. To make the aillade, I blended walnuts and garlic to a paste, then added walnut oil little by little, and chopped parsley at the end. I cut the monkfish into chunks, rolled these in seasoned flour, and fried them in olive oil together with chopped shallots and garlic. I added a little fish stock and then the aillade. Served with saffron (or, in my case, turmeric) rice.

You can’t go wrong

You can’t go wrong with le poulet rôti aux pommes de terre et aux légumes / roast chicken with potatoes and vegetables. I put some duck fat in the bottom of a roasting pan, then added potatoes (small), an onion (sliced into rings), carrots / celery (sliced), and peeled garlic cloves. I poured in some water and mixed well. On top of this bed of vegetables, I placed my lovely farm chicken, stuffed with cèpes (dried and reconstituted in a little water) and more garlic cloves. I coated the bird with duck fat and seasoned well with salt and pepper. I roasted for 90 minutes. I carved the chicken into portions and served the pan juices as gravy.

Basic & comforting

La soupe de vendredi saint / Good Friday soup is traditionally eaten at the end of the Lenten fast. It is made from basic ingredients: I soaked dried chick peas for 24 hours, then drained and rinsed them. I cooked these in salted water for a couple of hours until tender. I heated duck fat in a pan and fried chopped onion and garlic until just starting to colour. I liquidised everything in a blender, then reheated, adding some salt and pepper. The result was a very thick soup which I thinned with a little stock and served with fried bread cubes. This dish might be frugal and appropriate to the season, but it was also very good to eat.

A great starter

For the recipe le pain de poisson / fish terrine, I poached salmon and cod in a court bouillon, made from celery, leek, onion, seasonings, and parsley, all simmered briefly in water and white wine. I drained the fish, removed the skin and flaked it into small pieces. I added breadcrumbs which I had soaked in milk. In another bowl, I beat eggs with salt and pepper and tomato concentrate, then added this to the fish mixture along with some finely chopped onion. I poured the mixture into a buttered terrine and cooked in a bain-marie for 40 minutes. I left to cool and served with prawns and mayonnaise. This makes a great starter because it is easy to make and can be prepared ahead of time.

Some exciting news

Magrets & Mushrooms, the sequel to Goose Fat & Garlic by Jeanne Strang, is published today by ckbk, the cookbook app.

The newly published sequel draws on the wealth of additional research that Jeanne carried out while living in France with her husband in the years following the publication of Goose Fat & Garlic. Strang digs deep into the region’s food traditions, while also capturing the evolution of food and cooking in the area to incorporate influences and ingredients from further afield. The 138 vibrant new recipes include several for the plump duck breasts (magrets) of the title and showcase traditional dishes which make the most of the produce of local orchards, farmyards, and fishing villages. But this is more than just a recipe book. Woven through with Jeanne Strang’s warm anecdotes and witty observations, Magrets & Mushrooms is a window into the culinary soul of South-West France, capturing the central role of food in a traditional way of life that is fast disappearing.
For further information, see the feature article on ckbk

Magrets & Mushrooms is simultaneously published as an eBook (£7.99), paperback (£11.99), and hardback (£14.99) and is available via Amazon, and is also included in ckbk Premium Membership. The digital editions include my photographs from this blog (I have cooked some 40 recipes thus far), and more will be added as I work my way through the book. So, I had better get cooking!

Quite a showstopper!

To make gateau au citron et yaourt / lemon yoghurt cake, I used a Bundt tin for the first time. I was a bit nervous as it looked complicated. I prepared the tin by brushing every nook and cranny with melted butter, and then dusting with flour. I creamed butter and sugar together, then added two beaten eggs, one at a time. When well mixed, I added flour, baking powder, salt, plain yoghurt and the grated zest of one lemon. The result was a creamy thick batter. I transferred this mixture to the tin, spoonful by spoonful, making sure that there were no trapped air bubbles. I baked for 50 minutes until risen and golden brown. I left the cake to cool for 15 minutes, then tentatively turned it upside down. It slid out easily, revealing a lovely intricate pattern.

Another excellent supper

For les côtes de porc mijotés / braised pork chops, I used organic pork shoulder steaks. I laid the “chops” in a shallow pan, added sliced onions and carrots, and poured over white wine and chicken stock. I seasoned well and covered with a lid. I simmered gently for 40 minutes, turning the chops half way through the cooking. I removed the chops and reduced the sauce by boiling for a few minutes. The steaks were moist and tender, and the vegetable sauce, with steamed potatoes, a perfect accompaniment.

Slowly braised pork shoulder steaks retain all their flavour and juiciness

Simple & wholesome

To make les cuisses de poulet au bouillon / chicken legs in a vegetable stock, I put the chicken pieces into a casserole and covered with chopped vegetables: carrots, onions, and garlic. I covered with chicken stock (from a cube) and added salt and pepper. I brought to the the boil and simmered gently for half an hour. I removed the chicken, placed on a baking tray, and brushed the skins with melted butter and sprinkled over a bit more seasoning. I placed under a hot grill until crisp and golden. Meanwhile, I reduced the bouillon, then strained, and served this as a sauce. The chicken was moist and tender, with a crunchy appetising skin, and the simple sauce was delicious.