I thought I would have another go at cooking le cassoulet, a dish evocative of South-West France. I did a bit of research as there are lots of variations to this classic dish. But, essentially, there are three distinct processes: first, the dried haricot beans are soaked overnight and cooked the following day with flavourings. Second, a ragoût of meats is made. And, finally, the cassoulet is assembled by layering the beans and meats, adding duck or goose confit, and topping with breadcrumbs. Then the dish is cooked slowly in a low oven until the crust becomes golden. In Goose Fat & Garlic, Jeanne Strang emphasis that authentic ingredients are key to achieving the complex meld of flavours, and so I specially ordered Lingots beans (which grow in the Ariége Valley in the foothills of the Pyrenees) and Toulouse sausage (100% pork). This is a dish which we often order in the small traditional restaurants in the Lot, and so it was very evocative of our holidays there. However, I think I need more practice to capture its magic.

Le cassoulet / white beans with sausages, tomatoes, garlic and meats is a world famous dish from South-West France and worthy of a chapter on its own in Goose Fat & Garlic. We have often eaten it in rustic restaurants and bought it in jars from the market but, like l’aligot, I have never had the courage to try it for myself. However, the instructions are clear with alternatives suggested, and I was hoping I might achieve the magic chemistry described. It was a bit nerve-wracking as there were several stages and more than four hours of cooking with tasting not really possible.  We invited our friend Martin to supper – he is a bit of a connoisseur when it comes to French cuisine – and I held my breath when I cut into the crispy crust to release the wonderful aromas beneath. Martin pronounced it absolutely delicious and had second helpings. This is definitely going on my dinner party menu list!

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I used 100% pure pork sausages and roast chicken as an English alternative to Toulouse sausages and confit de canard, but will try the traditional ingredients when in France.  I used dry haricot beans bought from a supermarket, but there is a lot of interesting information in Goose Fat & Garlic about different varieties of beans which can be used and the possibility that the original cassoulet was made with broad beans, which sounds intriguing. Finally, I had to make do with a Pyrex dish but I will try to seek out the special pot or cassole (from which the dish derives its name).